~Instrument Storage Tips from an Acoustic Guitar Specialty Store~

First, I’d like to list a few points to keep in mind when storing your guitar.

The first is storage in a hard case.

If you think, “It’s safe as long as it’s in a sturdy hard case!” and leave it there as is, it can actually worsen the condition of your acoustic guitar.

Paint Peeling:

In hot, humid environments, the synthetic fibers inside the case can react with the guitar’s finish.
This can cause the finish to peel or the fabric fibers to stick to the body and become impossible to remove.

Rust on Metal Parts:

Highly airtight hard cases can trap moisture inside.
If moisture builds up inside the case, not only the strings but even the frets and tuning pegs can rust.

Unexpected Cracks in Wooden Parts Due to Falling:

Many people probably lean their hard cases against a corner of the room.
If the case falls over, the impact is transmitted through the hard case to the guitar, which can lead to cracks in the wood.
This is especially true with non-genuine cases that don’t fit properly, as the guitar will rattle around inside.
If the case falls over in that state, the guitar will hit the hard parts of the case directly.
Just because it’s a hard case doesn’t mean it’s safe if it falls over, so be careful about how and where you place it.

Prevention:

Open the case occasionally to check the guitar’s condition and let fresh air circulate inside.
If you’re leaning the guitar against a wall, choose a spot where it’s unlikely to fall over or where it won’t bump into other furniture, or use a rack.

Stands and wall mounts that allow you to grab your guitar immediately are recommended storage methods because they increase the frequency of playing and make it easier to notice any changes in the guitar’s condition. However, there are some precautions to keep in mind.

Chemical Reactions Between Rubber and Finish:

When indoor temperatures and humidity rise, the finish on an acoustic guitar can soften and react with the rubber or foam parts of the stand, potentially leaving marks. We recommend using a “stand bra” or similar product to protect the contact areas. If the finish does react, do not try to scrub it off forcefully; consult a specialty store first.

Click here for the Stand Bra (GS103BSL) product page

Risk of Falling or Impact:

When the motorcycle is parked on the stand, there is a risk of tripping over it or of surrounding furniture colliding with it during an earthquake.
Avoid placing it in walkways or near furniture; choose a safe location.

Staff Comment

Hard cases, stands, and wall mounts each have their pros and cons. The key is to be aware in advance of the potential issues associated with each storage method. Toward the end of this column, I’ll also share how I actually store my acoustic guitar at home. I hope this column helps you find the perfect storage solution for your acoustic guitar.

Acoustic guitars are, above all, sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity.
Regardless of your storage method, avoid the following locations:

Near a window exposed to direct sunlight:

The heat from the sun can cause the guitar to overheat, which may have a negative effect on it.
In addition, ultraviolet (UV) rays can react with the finish, causing the color to fade or the finish to discolor.
While this might add to the charm of a vintage guitar, it’s important to be aware in advance that UV rays can affect the finish.

Locations directly exposed to air conditioning vents:

Direct exposure to hot or cold air can lead to cracking of the finish (weather checking) or splitting of the wood due to drying.

Inside a car or in an outdoor storage area without air conditioning:

Temperatures can reach extreme highs in the summer and become very cold and dry in the winter.

Top floor of a house (e.g., second floor):

These areas are easily exposed to direct sunlight and tend to get very hot.
Depending on the building’s construction, it’s best to avoid these spots if they tend to get hot.

Warehouses without air conditioning, as well as closets and storage cupboards in rooms:

Depending on the location, moisture can easily build up, so extra caution is needed, especially in the summer.

In addition to following the precautions mentioned so far, there are two main points to keep in mind when storing an acoustic guitar.

① Maintain a temperature of around 20–25 degrees and a humidity level of about 50%.
② Loosen the strings until they’re very loose.

For point ②, please refer to “Should You ‘Really’ Loosen the Strings on an Acoustic Guitar?”

Regarding point ①, start by placing a “thermohygrometer” in the storage area.
The most important thing is to understand the current conditions.
Place a thermohygrometer in the guitar’s storage area and keep track of the readings both during your daily routine and when you return home from being out.

Management Standards at Our Store (Advance Guitars)

First, we’d like to introduce the storage environment at our store for your reference.
・Temperature: Around 25°C
・Humidity: 40%–60% (Generally aiming for 50%)
・Direct sunlight is completely blocked. (This is possible due to the store’s structure.)
・Guitars are displayed using wall hooks or guitar stands
*Strings are stored in a very loose state.

To maintain this environment, we run the air conditioning 24 hours a day during both summer and winter.
We also operate two humidifiers and two dehumidifiers each, depending on the season.
Under these conditions, there is virtually no change in the guitar’s condition.
Even if the neck shifts occasionally, the movement is minor and can be corrected with a simple adjustment.

Even if I were to explain the store’s management methods, you might think, “That’s not really helpful…”
Therefore, I’d also like to share how I actually store my guitars at home.
My home is easily affected by the outside climate, and in the summer, without air conditioning, the room temperature easily exceeds 30°C and the humidity exceeds 65%.
So, I’ve implemented the following measures.

I designate a single room for storage and run the air conditioning at full capacity:

To keep electricity costs down, I’ve designated a single room for storing my guitars. In that room, I keep the air conditioner and dehumidifier (or humidifier in winter) running almost all day, aiming for a room temperature of 25°C and a humidity level of 50%. In practice, the humidity hovers around 50–60%, and it can rise to 65–70% when the dehumidifier stops, but so far, no significant changes in condition have occurred.

The humidifier is a steam-type (heated) model:

▶︎ZOJIRUSHI Steam Humidifier EE-RP50

I use a model that heats water to produce steam. This is because non-heating models can sometimes release calcium deposits found in tap water. It also helps prevent the humidifier from becoming contaminated with red mold. With the model I use, the calcium deposits solidify inside the water tank, so I have to go through the trouble of cleaning it with citric acid, but other than that, it works well. My regular dentist uses the exact same model, which gave me peace of mind.

Dehumidifier: Compressor-type:

▶︎Iris Ohyama Dehumidifier with Air Purifier Function DCE-120

Dehumidifiers come in compressor-type, desiccant-type, and hybrid-type models.
Among these, I recommend the compressor-type because it has high dehumidification power and is less likely to raise the room temperature compared to the desiccant-type.
While it does have the drawback of being less effective at dehumidifying when the room temperature is low, this isn’t an issue since I don’t use the dehumidifier during cold weather anyway.
In practice, the room temperature rises by about 2–3°C, so I use it in conjunction with air conditioning during the summer.
The basic setting is to “aim for 50% indoor humidity.”
Since the humidity in my home tends to be on the high side, I often set it to the strongest “clothing drying” mode.
However, I want to avoid dehumidifying too much and dropping below 40%, so please adjust the settings to suit your home’s environment.

Key Points: Preparing for Dry Winter Conditions

During the winter, indoor humidity can drop to nearly 30%.
At this time, the biggest concern for acoustic guitars is peeling or cracking of the wood.

Peeling at the center joint under the bridge:
The most common issue—one that occurs when the wood can’t withstand the dryness—is peeling at the center joint of the top under the bridge.

Top Cracks Near the Pickguard Perimeter:
A common issue with vintage Gibson and Martin guitars is that the top can crack near the perimeter of the inlaid pickguard.

Fingerboard Cracks:
Although not very common, the fingerboard can sometimes crack.
Many of these problems are caused by dryness.

First, understand the current situation

Even though we’re talking about dry winter conditions, it’s hard to know exactly when or how this will happen.
Start by placing a thermo-hygrometer where you store your acoustic guitar and checking the humidity daily.

Some of you might be thinking, “But I can’t check the humidity while I’m out!”

These days, there are devices that let you check the temperature and humidity from your smartphone while you’re out, and they’ll alert you with an alarm if the conditions deviate from your set range. I’ve started using one myself. It’s compact, so I love that I can fit it inside my hard case.

▶︎INKBIRD IBS-TH3

Preparing for Sudden Dryness

Once the humidity starts dropping below 50%, it’s a good idea to have a humidifier ready.
Dryness can set in all at once, and this “sudden drop in humidity” itself is bad for acoustic guitars.
If possible, as soon as the humidity starts dropping below 50%, set the humidifier to automatic mode at 50%,
to prevent the humidity from dropping too quickly.

Storing your guitar in a hard case is another option:
Some people choose to store their guitars in hard cases to prepare for sudden drops in humidity.
Since hard cases are more airtight, they are less likely to cause sudden changes in humidity.
However, depending on the condition of the case, there may be a slight gap around the lid.
It’s best not to rely on this alone; we recommend checking the humidity inside the case as well.
In that regard, the smartphone app mentioned earlier that lets you check humidity levels can be very useful.

Move the guitar to a room that doesn’t get too dry:
Moving your guitar to a room that doesn’t get too dry is another option.
A room that feels muggy in the summer might actually be one that stays relatively dry in the winter.
Use a thermo-hygrometer to monitor the conditions and find the best storage spot for each season.

Moisturizing the fretboard:
Apply fretboard oil to keep the fretboard moisturized before it becomes dry and brittle.
This is the fretboard oil we use at our store.

Click here for the Big Bends / Fret Board Juice product page

During the peak of the dry season, maintain a humidity level of around 50%:
When the peak of the dry season arrives, use a humidifier to maintain a humidity level of around 50%.
Also, as a reminder, avoid placing your guitar where it’s directly exposed to the flow of warm air from a heater.

Storage in Hard Cases and Gig Bags:

Since I have small children, I don’t use a stand; I store my guitar in its case instead.
It’s a bit of a hassle to take it out every time, but it serves as a good opportunity to “check its condition” and “let fresh air circulate inside the case.”
I store my hard case upright inside a closet in an air-conditioned room.
Because the closet has a door, the case is less likely to fall over even in the event of a strong tremor.
Using a rack to prevent it from falling over is also a good idea.
The ones I keep in gig cases are also propped up against the wall in the same room.
Sometimes my kids trip over them and knock them over, but since the cases are padded, they’ve never broken.

One for motivation:

To be honest, I also feel like, “I don’t want to worry too much about storage. If it breaks, I can fix it, so it’s no big deal.”
So, to make sure I can play anytime, I keep one “guitar that’s okay to break” on hand, and I’m the only one who leaves this one tuned and on its stand.(Thanks as always.)

I imagine some of you might find it difficult to keep the air conditioning on all day because of your family.
In that case, I recommend choosing the spot in your home with the most stable temperature and humidity and using an air conditioner to maintain the environment—at least while you’re at home.

☐ Place a thermometer and hygrometer in the storage area
☐ Avoid placing items near windows or in areas directly exposed to air conditioning
☐ If possible, use air conditioning and aim for a room temperature of around 20–25 degrees
☐ Use a dehumidifier in summer and a humidifier in winter to maintain a humidity level of around 50%
☐ If storing the instrument in a case, open it occasionally to check its condition and let fresh air circulate
☐ Be careful with the contact points on stands and wall mounts. Protect them with stand pads or similar accessories as needed
☐ Keep the strings loosened

So, which is best—a case, a stand, or a wall mount?

As long as you follow the precautions and care instructions outlined above, we believe there is no significant difference between storing your instrument in a case, on a stand, or mounted on the wall.
That said, if your environment and space allow it, we at our store believe that storing your instrument on a stand or mounted on the wall has its advantages.
This is because having it within easy reach increases the opportunities to play, and you’ll be able to notice any changes in its condition right away.

Staff Comment

So far, I’ve covered the precautions for hard cases, stands, and wall mounts; places to avoid; temperature and humidity guidelines; and practical examples from our store and my own home. I’ve written a lot, but all of this is “information that’s worth knowing.” That said, I also realize that trying to do everything perfectly can be overwhelming in its own way. So, to wrap things up, let me share one final piece of advice.