The Complete Guide to Electric Guitar Maintenance
From daily care to cleaning by part and precautions based on finish type

Electric guitars are made from a combination of materials with completely different properties: wood (the body and neck) and metal (frets, bridge, tuning pegs, and strings). Wood repeatedly expands and contracts due to changes in ambient temperature and humidity, while metal parts gradually oxidize and corrode due to sweat and sebum secreted by your hands, as well as moisture in the air.

If left unattended without maintenance, the wood of the fingerboard can dry out and crack, and the frets can rust, causing an unpleasant, gritty sensation when you bend a note. Furthermore, rust on the strings hinders accurate tuning and robs the instrument of its natural sustain and harmonic richness.

In short, the primary goal of maintenance is to “slow the instrument’s deterioration and keep it in a condition that consistently delivers optimal playability and sound.” A little daily care can make a huge difference in the instrument’s condition years or even decades down the line.

To perform proper maintenance, it is essential to use specialized products. Substituting everyday items can actually risk damaging the instrument, so be sure to have the following basic items on hand.

・Cleaning Cloth

A cloth specifically designed for wiping dirt off your guitar.Broadly speaking, there are “cotton cloths,” which are soft and highly absorbent, and “microfiber cloths,” which use ultra-fine fibers to trap microscopic dirt. Ideally, you should use the appropriate cloth for each task, but we recommend starting with a few microfiber cloths. If you set aside at least three separate cloths—one for wiping the strings, one for dry-wiping the body, and one for applying oil or polish—you can prevent chemicals from getting on other parts of the instrument.

・Guitar Polish

This cleaner removes stubborn dirt, fingerprints, and oil residue from the body and restores its shine. There are two types: those containing abrasives (compound) and non-silicone types that do not. For routine maintenance, choose the non-abrasive type to avoid damaging the finish.

・Fretboard Conditioner

Used to clean and moisturize unvarnished fingerboards, such as those made of rosewood or ebony. Lemon oil is highly volatile and works well for cleaning, but mineral oil-based products are recommended for moisturizing.

・Contact Restorer

This spray is designed to fix poor contact (hiss) in electronic components such as volume and tone knobs and jacks. Spraying a small amount removes dirt from metal contacts and ensures smooth electrical flow.

After playing an electric guitar, the strings are covered with sweat, sebum, and dead skin cells secreted from your fingers. Human sweat contains salt and acids, which are the primary causes of rapid oxidation of metal strings.

After playing, be sure to use a cloth specifically designed for strings and carefully wipe each string one by one. Pinch the string between the edges of the cloth as if holding it from above and below, then wipe it by sliding the cloth smoothly from the nut (near the headstock) toward the bridge (near the body). Since dirt tends to accumulate not only on the top side of the string—where the pads of your fingers touch—but also on the underside of the string facing the fretboard, the key is to wipe it in a way that envelops the entire string.

Additionally, applying a commercially available “string lubricant (string cleaner)” after wiping will form an ultra-thin protective coating on the string’s surface, significantly slowing the progression of rust. At the same time, it improves finger glide, enhancing the playing feel for your next performance.

Once you’ve finished wiping the strings, next wipe down the entire body with a dry cloth. The top of the body—which your right arm touches when you hold the guitar—and the back of the body—which presses against your body—are directly exposed to friction from your clothes and sweat. The back of the neck (the grip area) is also a critical spot where a large amount of sweat from your left palm accumulates.

Use a clean, lint-free cloth to dry-wipe the body and the back of the neck. Instead of scrubbing vigorously, gently stroke the surface to remove dirt. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as invisible dust on the cloth can act like sandpaper and cause fine scratches on the finish.

For routine care, “dry wiping” alone is generally sufficient. The secret to making the finish last longer is to reserve the use of polish only for when you notice dullness or stubborn fingerprints that dry wiping cannot remove.

The guitar fingerboard is typically made of wood such as “maple,” “rosewood,” or “ebony.” Maple fingerboards are often finished with a coat of varnish, so they can be maintained in the same way as the body—by wiping them down with a dry cloth or using polish.

However, rosewood and ebony fingerboards have an exposed (unvarnished) wood surface. Sweat and oils from your hands easily seep into the grain, and if left unattended for a long time, the dirt can harden into layers. Additionally, when exposed to dry winter air, the wood loses moisture just like human skin, and in the worst cases, the fingerboard may crack.

After removing the strings, first dampen a cloth with a small amount of lemon oil or orange oil and spread a thin layer over the entire fingerboard.For black grime accumulated along the edges of the frets, gently scrape it out with a toothpick or a specialized cleaning brush after the oil has been worked into the wood. After applying the oil, let it sit for a few minutes to allow it to penetrate the wood, and finally, thoroughly wipe away any excess oil with a clean cloth. If too much oil remains, it can cause the wood around the fret grooves to become too soft or make the strings sticky, so it’s important to ensure that no oil is left behind.

Frets, being metal parts, gradually oxidize simply from exposure to air, causing them to become dull and discolored. If the frets become rusty or rough, resistance will occur when you press down on the strings to change pitch—such as during bending or vibrato—preventing smooth playing.

When polishing the frets, protect the area around them with “masking tape” or a specialized “fret guard” (a metal plate) to prevent damage to the wood of the fingerboard.Next, use a specialized metal-polishing cloth or an ultra-fine compound (abrasive) to polish the frets until their surface is as shiny as a mirror. After polishing, wipe the fretboard carefully to ensure no polishing residue or compound remains. Shiny, polished frets not only make bending incredibly smooth but also enhance the instrument’s overall appearance, restoring its luxurious look.

The tuning pegs on the headstock and the bridge—where the strings end—are metal parts that tend to accumulate hand sweat and dust. In particular, the area around the bridge saddles (where the strings rest) has a complex shape, so use a cotton swab or similar tool to remove dust and rust from the fine crevices.If rust progresses to the point where the screws won’t turn, you won’t be able to adjust the octave tuning or string height. For stiff screws or moving parts, applying just a single drop of guitar lubricant will help maintain smooth operation.

Staff Comment

Even though we simply call them “acoustic guitars,” your options vary greatly depending on your playing genre and the sound you want to achieve!
Each one is packed with elements that, once you get hooked, you won’t be able to put down—it’s a lot of fun!
If you’re just vaguely thinking, “I’d like to try playing an acoustic guitar,” we recommend starting with a folk guitar!

Many electric guitars currently on the market feature a “poly finish” made from synthetic resins such as polyurethane or polyester. Once dry, these finishes form an extremely hard and durable coating that is highly resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, as well as external impacts.

Caring for a poly finish is relatively simple. Since sweat and dirt rarely penetrate beneath the finish, a daily dry wipe with a cloth is usually sufficient. For stubborn dirt, simply spray a small amount of standard guitar polish onto a cloth and gently wipe the surface to restore its beautiful shine. Since the finish is generally resistant to chemicals, there’s no need to be overly cautious.

On the other hand, vintage guitars, high-end models, and premium instruments crafted with meticulous attention to detail may feature a traditional finish known as “nitrocellulose lacquer.” While lacquer finishes offer acoustic benefits—such as a very thin coating that does not hinder the wood’s natural resonance—they require the utmost care.

Lacquer finishes are extremely sensitive to chemicals and sudden temperature changes. The biggest concern is a “chemical reaction with the guitar stand.” While the neck and body rests on standard guitar stands typically use rubber cushioning, the plasticizers contained in this rubber can react with the lacquer finish, causing the paint on the contact points to melt or turn black—a phenomenon known as “stand burn.”To prevent this, you must either use a stand designed for lacquer finishes or wrap a cotton stand bra (cover) or cloth around the rubber parts of the stand to protect the guitar and prevent it from coming into direct contact with the rubber.

Additionally, when cleaning, using general-purpose polish can cause the finish to become cloudy or dissolve, so you must always use specialized polish or cleaners explicitly labeled as “safe for lacquer finishes.”

We carry a wide selection of vintage and high-end models with lacquer finishes, and in an environment where knowledgeable staff are on hand to provide support, you can confidently choose and continue playing even these delicate instruments.

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Staff Comment

When choosing an acoustic guitar, the time spent considering specifications like materials and body shapes can be both a challenge and a pleasure!
The information above is merely a general trend; there’s no rule stating that a particular guitar “can’t be used for this genre” or “isn’t suitable.”
Don’t overthink it—feel free to pick up any guitar that catches your eye!

Author: Mochizuki (Advance Guitars Staff)

In my personal life, I mainly play electric guitar. Drawing on my boundless love and interest in instruments—so much so that I continue to play guitar even during work breaks—I showcase the appeal of acoustic guitars with some of the finest strumming techniques at Advance Guitars.

Qualifications and Experience: 4 years as a musical instrument appraiser

▶︎Read my articles here:
The Secret of the Ovation Adamas
The Legend of Terry Nakamoto: Yamaha’s Four Heavenly Kings