Proper Maintenance and Care Tips
to Extend the Life of Your Acoustic Guitar

After you finish playing your guitar, do you simply put it back in its case or lean it against a guitar stand? After playing, your guitar is covered in sweat and sebum from your hands and fingers, as well as dust from the air. Leaving these substances on the guitar is the biggest factor in accelerating its deterioration. Make it a habit to always dry-wipe your guitar with a dedicated cleaning cloth after playing.

The three main areas you should wipe with the cloth are the “entire body,” the “back of the neck,” and the “strings.” The body tends to accumulate sweat, especially in the areas touched by your right arm (if you’re right-handed), so wipe these areas thoroughly and gently. The back of the neck is also prone to a buildup of sebum because your left palm is constantly in contact with it. The key is to wipe the surface gently, as if you’re stroking it, without applying too much pressure.

And the part people most often forget to wipe down is the “strings.” Since strings are made of metal, they’re extremely vulnerable to the salt and acid in sweat and sebum; if left unwiped, they’ll rust within a few days to a few weeks.Rusted strings feel rough to the touch and not only significantly impair playability—such as when sliding—but also cause a loss of sustain, resulting in a muffled tone. When wiping the strings, it’s most effective to gently pinch each string with the cloth and wipe it by sliding the cloth from the nut toward the bridge.

Chords used for this purpose are broadly categorized into cotton and microfiber types. For routine dry wiping, we recommend microfiber cloths, as their fine fibers effectively trap dirt. Also, be sure to use separate cloths for applying polish and for dry wiping. This is because if polish residue adheres to the strings or fingerboard, it may actually accelerate deterioration.

What kind of adverse effects might occur on an acoustic guitar if sweat and sebum are left on the instrument for an extended period without being wiped away?

First, there is the risk of finish deterioration. In particular, “lacquer finishes”—commonly used on high-end acoustic guitars—are extremely sensitive to chemicals and the acids in sweat. If sebum residue is left untreated, the finish may become cloudy; in the worst cases, the finish may melt and become sticky, or peel away, exposing the wood beneath. Once the finish is damaged, restoring it can incur high repair costs.

Second, there’s rust and corrosion of metal parts. Not only the strings, but metal components such as tuning pegs and frets are also affected by sweat and humidity. If the gears inside the tuning pegs rust, tuning becomes difficult and less precise.If frets rust or become tarnished, not only does this make it harder to slide your fingers during bending, but the increased friction with the strings also shortens their lifespan.

Third, there’s the impact on the wood. When sweat seeps into the fingerboard (which is often made of unvarnished woods like rosewood or ebony), dirt clogs the pores (vessels), preventing the wood from “breathing.” If this builds up over time, it can cause the fingerboard to dry out, crack, or even develop mold.

As you can see, simply neglecting to “wipe down” your guitar for just a few minutes can lead to various forms of damage accumulating over time. “Always wipe it down after you finish playing.” This simple routine is the most effective maintenance practice for ensuring your acoustic guitar lasts a long time. Be sure to perform this care after every performance.

Staff Comment

Even though we use the term “acoustic guitar,” your options vary greatly depending on your playing style and the sound you want to achieve!
Each type is packed with elements that, once you get hooked, you won’t be able to put down—it’s a lot of fun! If you’re just
vaguely thinking, “I’d like to try playing an acoustic guitar,” we recommend starting with a folk guitar!

Acoustic guitar strings are consumables. So, how often should you replace them? If you’re using standard bronze or phosphor-bronze strings and play for about an hour a day, the general guideline is to replace them every “one to one and a half months.” Even if you only play a little on the weekends, we recommend replacing them once every “two to three months.”

Look for the following signs that it’s time to change your strings:

1. Change in tone: If the sparkling overtones (bright high notes) characteristic of new strings are lost and the sound becomes muffled or hollow, it’s time to replace them.

2. Change in texture: If the surface of the strings has turned black, or if you feel roughness or resistance when running your fingers over them, rust or corrosion has already begun.

3. Unstable tuning: As strings age, they lose their elasticity, making it difficult to tune the instrument or causing it to go out of tune quickly.

4. Pitch Deviation: If the pitch becomes inaccurate when playing in the higher positions, this is also a sign of string deterioration.

In recent years, “coated strings” (such as Elixir), which feature an ultra-thin coating on the surface to prevent rust and dirt, have become widely popular. Coated strings are said to last 3 to 5 times longer than regular strings, making them an excellent choice for those who want to reduce the frequency of string changes or who tend to sweat heavily from their hands. However, even with coated strings, they need to be replaced once the playing feel or tone quality begins to deteriorate.

Changing strings is a common stumbling block for beginners, but with a little practice, you’ll be able to do it smoothly. Having a peg winder (a tool that reduces the time needed to wind strings) and a pair of string cutters on hand will make the process much easier. When removing strings, don’t cut them with the cutters right away; instead, turn the tuning pegs to loosen the strings sufficiently before removing them. Cutting a string while it’s still under tension places a sudden strain on the neck, which can damage the guitar.

Once all the strings are removed, it’s the perfect opportunity to care for the “fretboard” and “frets,” which are usually difficult to clean because the strings get in the way.

Acoustic guitar fingerboards are typically made of hardwoods such as rosewood or ebony. Since these woods are unvarnished (with an oil finish, for example), they are directly affected by humidity in the air. Especially in dry winter conditions, moisture is drawn from the fingerboard, causing it to become dry and brittle; in the worst cases, cracks may form along the grain.

To prevent this, you should perform moisturizing care using a specialized oil (such as lemon oil, orange oil, or fingerboard lubricant). The procedure is as follows:

1. Soak a cloth with a small amount (a few drops) of oil.

2. Spread a thin layer over the entire fingerboard. If the fingerboard is very dirty, apply a slightly larger amount of oil to lift the dirt.

3. After letting it sit for a few minutes, use a separate dry cloth to completely wipe away any excess oil.

There is one very important point to note here: “applying too much oil.” If you apply a large amount of oil simply because the fingerboard is dry, or if you neglect to wipe it off thoroughly, the wood will absorb too much oil and become softened. As a result, this can cause the frets to lift or lead to neck warping. The golden rule is to “apply a thin layer and wipe it off thoroughly.”As for frequency, you don’t need to do this every time you change strings; it’s sufficient to do it when the wood feels dry or about once every six months.

You should also take this opportunity to remove any tarnish from the frets (metal bars). If the frets are tarnished, your fingers won’t glide smoothly when bending notes. Use a cloth specifically designed for fret polishing or a compound (abrasive) to polish them. If using a compound, be sure to protect both sides of the frets with masking tape before you begin to prevent the abrasive from adhering to the fingerboard wood.Fretwork polished to a mirror finish not only looks beautiful but also directly improves playability.

Japan has distinct seasons and, even by global standards, experiences extremely drastic fluctuations in humidity and temperature. These climatic conditions pose a severe challenge for acoustic guitars.

[Rainy Season to Summer: Hot and Humid]

Japanese summers are highly humid, and it’s not uncommon for humidity levels to exceed 70% to 80%. When wood absorbs excessive moisture, the entire guitar expands. If the top of an acoustic guitar’s body absorbs moisture and swells, the bridge lifts, resulting in higher string action (the gap between the frets and the strings). Higher string action requires more force to press down on the strings, making the guitar very difficult to play.This is also the time of year when the neck is more prone to warping due to the tension of the strings, causing it to bow forward (where the center of the neck dips inward). Furthermore, humidity can cause metal parts to rust and mold to grow inside the case.

[Winter: Cold and Dry]

On the other hand, the air is dry in winter, and indoor humidity can drop below 30% due to the use of heating appliances. When moisture is drawn out of the wood, the guitar contracts. When the top wood dries out and shrinks, the bridge drops, causing the string action to become too low. This makes it more likely for the strings to hit the frets, resulting in a “buzz” noise.The neck is also more prone to reverse bowing (where the center of the neck bulges upward). And the most serious concern is that the top and back panels, unable to withstand the contraction of the wood, may “crack.” High-end guitars made from solid wood, in particular, are at a higher risk of cracking due to dryness compared to laminated guitars, so extreme caution is required.

The ideal humidity for acoustic guitars is considered to be “40%–50%,” and the ideal temperature is around “20°C–25°C.” An environment that feels comfortable to humans is generally a comfortable environment for guitars as well. Here are some specific measures to maintain these ideal conditions.

1. Using Humidity Control Agents

The simplest and most effective method is to use a humidity control agent designed for musical instruments. This product works by absorbing moisture when the humidity is high and releasing it when it’s dry, thereby maintaining a consistent humidity level inside the case. There are types that hang inside the soundhole and others that are placed inside the case. Replacing them with new ones about once every six months will ensure their effectiveness continues.

2. Storage in a Hard Case

If you won’t be playing your guitar for an extended period, or during seasons with extreme fluctuations in humidity and temperature, we strongly recommend storing your guitar in a hard case rather than leaving it out on a guitar stand. Hard cases are highly effective at blocking external environmental influences, and by placing a humidity control agent inside the case, you can create a stable “mini-room” environment for your guitar. Soft cases and gig bags are not airtight enough to provide sufficient protection.

3. Controlling the Room Environment

If you play your guitar every day and find it a hassle to put it back in its case each time, you’ll need to control the environment of the room where the guitar is kept. In winter, run a humidifier to maintain humidity at 40% or higher; during the rainy season, use the dehumidification function on your air conditioner or a dehumidifier to keep humidity below 60%. It’s a good idea to place a digital thermometer and hygrometer near your guitar and get into the habit of checking the readings regularly for peace of mind.

You should also pay attention to where you store your guitar. Absolutely avoid placing it near windows exposed to direct sunlight, in areas directly exposed to air conditioning vents, or right next to heating appliances such as space heaters, as these can cause sudden changes in temperature and humidity. Since areas right up against walls are also prone to condensation and the influence of outside air, it’s best to place your guitar slightly away from the wall.

Staff Comment

Even though we simply call them “acoustic guitars,” your options vary greatly depending on your musical genre and the sound you want to achieve!
Each type is packed with elements that, once you get hooked, you won’t be able to resist—it’s a lot of fun! If you’re just
vaguely thinking, “I’d like to try playing an acoustic guitar,” we recommend starting with a folk guitar!

One of the most important factors affecting how easily a guitar plays is the condition of the neck. Since the neck is made of wood, it’s constantly at risk of warping due to the strong tension of the strings (in the case of an acoustic guitar, a force of about 70 kg to 80 kg is applied) and changes in the environment.

There are two main types of neck warping.

1. Positive Bow: A condition where the center of the neck curves inward toward the fingerboard (toward the strings). This results in high string action, making the higher frets difficult to play.

2. Backbend: A condition where the center of the neck curves upward toward the opposite side of the fretboard (the back). The string action becomes too low, causing the strings to hit the frets in the lower positions, resulting in buzzing or muffled tones.

There is a simple way to check for neck warping. Hold the guitar, press down on the 1st fret of the 6th string with your left hand, and simultaneously press down on the top fret of the 6th string (near the body joint) with your right hand. In this position, visually inspect the gap between the string and the fret at the center of the neck (roughly between the 7th and 9th frets).The ideal condition is a very slight gap—just enough to fit a business card, if at all (approximately 0.3 mm to 0.5 mm). If the gap is too wide, the neck is bowing forward; if the strings are completely flush against the frets, the neck is bowing backward or is too straight.

Most acoustic guitars have a metal rod called a “truss rod” embedded inside the neck, and you can adjust the bow by turning it with an Allen wrench or similar tool. However, adjusting the truss rod is a very delicate task. If you turn it in the wrong direction or turn it too much at once, it can cause the neck to twist or, in the worst case, lead to a major accident such as the rod breaking inside the neck or the fingerboard peeling off.Even if you’re adjusting it yourself, you should limit the amount you turn at any one time to “about five minutes on a clock face (approximately 30 degrees).” If you have even the slightest concern, or if the rod is too tight to turn, the best course of action is to take it to a repair shop rather than forcing it.

Guitar Repairs Here

In addition to neck warping, there are other serious issues that should be left to a professional.

1. Bridge Lift or Detachment

The wooden plate on the body’s surface that secures the strings of an acoustic guitar (the bridge) is glued to the top with a strong adhesive. However, due to years of string tension or the adhesive deteriorating from being left in high-temperature environments—such as inside a car—the rear end of the bridge may begin to lift off the top.If you can slip a piece of paper into the gap between the bridge and the body, that’s a warning sign. If left unaddressed, the bridge could suddenly detach completely one day, potentially causing significant damage to the top. Since reattaching the bridge requires specialized clamps and technical expertise, you must never attempt to apply adhesive yourself.

2. Extreme bulging of the top (belly-up)

This condition occurs when the top wood around the bridge bulges outward due to excessive humidity or leaving the strings on the instrument for an extended period. This causes the string action to become abnormally high. In mild cases, the issue may be resolved by adjusting the humidity, but in severe cases, the internal bracing may have come loose, requiring extensive repairs.

3. Loose or Severely Worn Frets

If notes sound muffled or buzz only at specific positions, the frets themselves may be lifting or may have become worn down and indented (uneven wear) due to years of playing. Fretting (the process of shaving the frets to an even height) and refretting (replacing the frets) are repairs that require specialized tools and skilled craftsmanship.

If you notice these symptoms when trying to play a guitar that has been left unused for a long time, you should exercise caution. While we understand the hesitation that comes with thinking, “Repairs might be expensive,” having a professional inspect it before the condition worsens will ultimately help keep costs down and save your precious instrument. Additionally, if the repair costs exceed the value of the guitar itself or if there is little hope of a successful repair, considering replacing it with a new guitar or selling it as-is is also a viable option.

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Staff Comments

When choosing an acoustic guitar, the time spent considering specifications—such as materials and body shapes—can be both a challenge and a joy! The information
above is merely a general trend; there’s no rule stating that a particular guitar “can’t be used for this genre” or “isn’t suitable.” Don’t overthink
it—feel free to pick up any guitar that catches your eye!

Daily care is essential to keep your acoustic guitar looking great and lasting a long time. When you’re not
playing, be sure to loosen the strings, change them at the right intervals, care for the fingerboard, and store your guitar in an environment with appropriate humidity and temperature.
Also, if you notice any abnormalities that are difficult to judge on your own—such as excessive neck warping or a loose bridge—never force the issue; consulting a professional repair technician is the best way to protect your precious instrument.
With loving daily care, you’ll be able to enjoy its beautiful tone for years to come.

Author: Mochizuki (Advance Guitars Staff)

In his personal life, he primarily plays electric guitar. Drawing on his boundless love and interest in instruments—so much so that he continues to play guitar even during work breaks—he showcases the appeal of acoustic guitars with some of Advance Guitars’ finest strumming techniques.

Qualifications and Experience: 4 years as a musical instrument appraiser

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