📩 Email: aco@tcgakki.com
Choosing Your First Instrument | Acoustic Guitar
Is your desire to "get started" the only thing left behind?
You want to start playing acoustic guitar
But the more you look into it, the less you know what the right choice is...
• There’s too much information to choose from
Reviews and comparisons are everywhere, and in the end, everything seems like a good option.
• You’re afraid to set a budget
I feel paralyzed, worried people will tell me, “It’s no good if it’s too cheap” or “The more expensive one is the right choice.”
• I’m embarrassed to try out a guitar when I can’t play
I’m worried about making a mistake in front of the salesperson, so I avoid going in.
• I’m worried I’ll make a mistake with a used instrument
My mind immediately jumps to the thought, “What if it’s in bad condition?”
• I’m worried I’ll get talked into something by the salesperson
I don’t have the confidence to judge whether it’s really the right fit for me.
Exhaustion sets in before the excitement—that’s the first hurdle
That anxiety isn’t your fault
Acoustic guitarsare a world completely different from your everyday shopping
• There’s a lot of technical jargon
Terms like “solid top,” “neck,” and “string height” are hard to understand at first glance.
• The price range is too wide
Prices range from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of yen, making it hard to see any clear standard.
• Everyinstrumentis unique
Even within the same model, there are differences in tone and playability.
As a result, many peopleend up choosing a guitar that’s hard to play and give up.
• Sore fingers
A poorly adjusted guitar requires more force than necessary.
• The guitar doesn’t produce sound
It’s easy to mistakenly think, “It’s because I’m bad at playing,” but the instrument itself could be the cause.
It’s not a matter of talent or effort— it’s simply that your first guitar wasn’t the right fit.
There are just three ways to choose a guitar without making a mistake
① Appearance
It’s okay to choose one simply because “I like this.”
• It’s important to be drawn to it intuitively
That feeling of “I like this” the moment you see it will be a lasting source of motivation.
• Imagine how it will look in your room
If you want to touch it, you’ll naturally play it more often.
Trust your intuition over looking for the “right” answer
② Sound
Your ears are already well-trained
• It’s okay to judge based on “like” or “dislike”
It’s more important that it feels good to you than whether it’s technically “good” or “bad.”
• You can check the sound even if you can’t play
Our staff will play it for you so you can hear the sound objectively.
Thinking “I don’t know because I’m a beginner” is just a misconception
③ Playing feel
Leave this part to the professionals
• Experience how easy it is to hold and grip
The right shape varies depending on your build and hand size.
• Finger placement can be adjusted
With proper setup, you can significantly reduce strain on your fingers.
Most setbacks can be prevented here
We set up every guitar before selling it
We ensure every guitar we receive is in perfect playing condition for the next owner
• No playing experience required
Testing the guitar is not required.
• We don’t use technical jargon
We explain everything assuming you don’t know the lingo.
• We won’t push sales
If something isn’t a good fit, I’ll tell you so.
• We’ll honestly describe the condition of used instruments
I’ll let you know about any necessary adjustments and how the item might change over time
This is especially suitable for people like this
• Those who don’t want to make a mistake on their first try
People who want to stick with it for the long term, not just buy a new one later.
• Those interested in used items but feeling uncertain
People who want a professional to assess the condition.
• Don’t want to give up because your fingers hurt
People who prioritize playability.
• Those considering singing while playing or performing live
People who want to discuss future uses as well.
• Don’t want it to be a “buy-and-forget” purchase
For those who want to consider maintenance and their musical growth.
Having friends to play with makes it easier to stick with it—let’s enjoy it together!
Just 30 seconds! We’ll recommend the perfect guitar for you
Just let us know the followingvia the chat below or email
• ① Why do you want to start?
Hobby, singing while playing, an artist you admire, etc.
• ② Where will you play?
At home, in a studio, outdoors, etc.
• ③ Your budget range
It’s okay if you haven’t decided yet.
• ④ What do you like in terms of appearance?
Color, shape, brand, etc.—it’s okay if you’re not sure.
We’ll recommend the “ perfect guitarfor you” that you’ re less likely to give up on, along with our reasoning.
📩 Email: aco@tcgakki.com
There’s a world of the guitar that only those who’ve stuck with it for a year can see
Your first guitar is the gateway to that world
We’ll be right by your side until you reach that point
There are two main types of acoustic guitars
...Here we are at the music store. When you step inside and see the vast array of acoustic guitars, you’ll likely freeze in place, thinking, “With so many to choose from, how am I supposed to know which one is right for me...?”To make sure you don’t go wrong, let’s start by explaining the different types of acoustic guitars. Broadly speaking, there are two main types: the “folk guitar” and the “classical guitar.” The folk guitar, which uses steel strings, accommodates a wide range of styles, from singing while strumming to “fingerpicking” without a pick.
Generally, when people say “acoustic guitar,” they’re referring to a folk guitar. On the other hand, the classical guitar—used, as the name suggests, for classical music and bossa nova—uses nylon strings and is typically played without a pick, using your fingers to pluck the melody.While the folk guitar’s jangly, resonant sound makes you want to strum away, the classical guitar’s soft, sweet tone is perfect for creating a cozy, intimate atmosphere. Incidentally, the classical guitar is also known as a “gut guitar.” It’s called this because in the past, strings made from sheep intestines (gut) were used.
At first glance, folk and classical guitars look the same, but you can spot differences in the body size, the bridge where the strings are attached, the tuning pegs, and even the width and thickness of the neck. Once you understand these differences, you can avoid the mistake of trying to play “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” on a classical guitar like the protagonist of a certain manga.
Now, let’s go over the key points to check when actually choosing an acoustic guitar. With so many acoustic guitars lined up, what should you look for? This might actually be the first and biggest hurdle. I’m often asked in stores, “I’m a beginner—what should I look for when choosing one?” When that happens, I reply, “A guitar that’s easy to play is better than one with a great sound.” (← Of course, I use polite language in real life.)
That’s right—I believe that when choosing your first acoustic guitar, the most important factor to prioritize is “playability”!! When it comes to the playability of an acoustic guitar, the first thing to consider is “string action.” String action refers to the space between the strings and the fingerboard where you press them down. Generally, the lower the string action, the easier it is to play because you don’t have to use as much force when pressing the strings.Compared to electric guitars, acoustic guitars naturally have a higher string action, so even if you’ve been playing electric guitars up until now, this is something you’ll want to check carefully. You could choose an acoustic guitar based on sound or design, putting playability second, but if the one you pick turns out to be hard to play, you might end up thinking, “Ugh, my fingers are killing me from practicing yesterday—I’m skipping today,” or “My fingers hurt again after just a few strums! I’m definitely skipping today too!”"Ugh, enough already! It hurts!" And just like that, your acoustic guitar ends up gathering dust... To keep playing happily, I highly recommend choosing a guitar that’s easy to play!!
Next up is the “neck”—a crucial part that’s closely related to string height and has a huge impact on playability. If you actually hold a neck in a store, you’ll see there are all kinds of shapes: thick ones, thin ones, ones that curve like a semicircle (U-neck), and ones shaped like a triangle (V-neck).Since you’ll be gripping the neck and pressing down on the strings while playing, you’ll want to choose a shape that fits your hand, though preferences vary from person to person. Generally speaking, slimmer necks are said to be easier to grip, so it might be a good idea to start by trying a slimmer one.
The next point to check is "body size." At first glance, acoustic guitars may all look the same, but there are actually many different types.The body size makes a significant difference in sound, playability, and, of course, appearance. There are three main body sizes. The first is the "Dreadnought" type. This is the most well-known size when people think of acoustic guitars. It has a slightly wider body with a shallow waist, making it an all-purpose size suitable for any style, from strumming to fingerpicking. The second is the "OOO (Triple-O)" type.
Characterized by a smaller body, this size is considered easy to play for women and those of smaller stature. Eric Clapton himself is a fan of this type. The third is the "Jumbo" type. As the name suggests, it features a large body—not a perfect backdrop, but a substantial one. Because of its size, you can enjoy a deep, resonant sound. Please choose based on your preferences for each model’s characteristics and appearance.It’s often said that the OOO type is better suited for fingerpicking, while the Jumbo type is better for strumming, but playing styles vary from person to person. Some of you might say, “I want to strum on an OOO!” or “I want to pluck away on a Jumbo—what’s wrong with that?” Go right ahead. I think finding your own unique style is one of the true joys of playing an instrument.
By the way, there isn’t a specific “OOO-type” for classical guitars; they basically all have the same shape. However, many classical guitars are handcrafted by luthiers, so the construction, size, and shape vary slightly depending on the maker, and of course, this results in differences in tone as well.
This is a classic acoustic guitar body style. As you can see, it produces a rich, deep sound.
It’s easy to hold and offers excellent playability. The body has a generally rounded shape.
Differences in Acoustic Guitar Materials
Now, let’s take a quick detour to briefly explain the structure, woods, and parts of acoustic guitars.The greatest appeal and defining feature of an acoustic guitar is, without a doubt, its natural sound. As I’ve said many times, since acoustic guitars are designed to produce sound from the instrument itself without an amplifier, they have a structure that resonates exceptionally well. Even a light tap will make it ring out with a “clang,” which can be a bit startling. Also, since they produce quite a bit of volume when played indoors, please be careful if you live in an apartment building with strict landlords.
And what really defines the sound of an acoustic guitar is the “wood.” Acoustic guitars are broadly made up of four parts: the top (front panel), sides (side panels), back (back panel), and neck. The sound varies depending on the combination of woods used for the top, sides, and back.
Top Wood:
Generally, spruce is commonly used for the top. To be more specific, there are different types of spruce, such as Sitka spruce, Engelmann spruce, and German spruce, each with its own tonal characteristics.Incidentally, while there are specialists who can identify the type of spruce by looking at the grain, for the average person, distinguishing between different types of spruce based on similar grain patterns is about as difficult as telling the difference between Osomatsu-kun and Choromatsu-kun at a glance. Spruce is characterized by a slightly hard texture and a clear tone. It is said that the sound improves the more you play it.
Another commonly used wood is cedar. Compared to spruce, it is softer and has a warm tone, making it popular for classical guitars. Like spruce, there are varieties such as "red cedar" and "white cedar."
Side & Back Wood:
Generally, the same wood is used for both the sides and back. The most common choices are "rosewood" and "mahogany." Rosewood, characterized by its vertical grain, produces a beautiful sustain and offers excellent balance across the entire frequency range, from low to high notes, making it the most popular choice for acoustic guitar sides and back. Simply put, I believe the combination of spruce and rosewood produces the most quintessential acoustic guitar sound.Mahogany is characterized by strong midrange and a crisp, clean sound. Personally, I prefer the tone of mahogany. Additionally, the "king of guitar woods" is "Hacanda." While it is classified as a type of rosewood, what is commonly referred to as "rosewood" is actually "Indian rosewood," while "Brazilian rosewood" is known as Hacanda.Currently, due to import and export restrictions, it is an extremely rare wood and is used only in high-end guitars. Guitars made with Jacaranda are the object of desire for everyone from young people to the elderly; you could say it’s the Madonna of the guitar world, or the Masami Nagasawa of the male population. (Or is it just me!?) By the way, using the word “Jacaranda” makes me feel a bit like a smooth operator. Please feel free to use it as much as you like. There are various other types as well, such as "maple," which is characterized by strong treble, a hard texture, and a bright tone, and "koa," which conveys warmth amidst a sparkling sustain and is often used in ukuleles. However, the difference in sound depending on the wood is a matter of personal preference—it’s not a question of good or bad. I think it’s best to actually play them and compare them for yourself.
Acoustic Guitar Parts and Component Names
Headstock:
The top part of the neck. The manufacturer’s logo is often printed here, but depending on the model, it may feature beautiful decorations or carvings, which greatly affect the guitar’s appearance.
Tuners:
The parts where the strings are wound. There is a wide variety, including gold, chrome (silver), and plastic buttons, making them perfect for beginners looking to customize their instrument
.
Nut:
Available in materials such as cow bone, carbon, and plastic, this small but crucial part affects the sound. It features grooves to prevent the strings from sliding sideways, and since the depth of these grooves affects the string height, it works in tandem with the saddle.
| Fret: |
| Soundhole: |
Pickguard:
Protects the top from scratches caused by picks. Some feature floral or bird motifs, while others have unique shapes, making it one of the stylish highlights of an acoustic guitar. Note that pickguards are often glued to the top, so removing or replacing them is not easy.
| Moving on to the parts, the one you should pay special attention to among the many is the "saddle. " As mentioned earlier, when buying your first guitar, I recommended choosing one with low string action for ease of play. However, even with a guitar that has high string action, there is a way to adjust the string height by adjusting this saddle. Yes, this is the "secret trick" I hinted at earlier. |
Bridge:
An essential part that not only transmits string vibration from the saddle to the body but also secures the strings. On a folk guitar, the strings are threaded through the bridge’s holes and secured with bridge pins.On classical guitars, it is common to wrap the strings around the bridge to secure them. Note that leaving the strings tensioned for extended periods can cause the area around the bridge to swell or the bridge to come loose due to the tension. Therefore, we recommend loosening the strings by half a step to a full step after playing. (This also helps prevent neck warping.)
Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing an Acoustic Guitar
Q. What exactly is an acoustic guitar? How does it differ from a folk guitar or a classical guitar?
A. Acoustic guitars are broadly categorized into folk and classical guitars, which differ in sound and intended use. Generally, the term “acoustic” often refers to a folk guitar. Before you start, confirm which type suits your purpose, and if you’re unsure, it’s best to consult with an expert.
Q. I live in a condo or apartment—is it okay to play an acoustic guitar at home?
A. Acoustic guitars are louder than you might imagine, and depending on your surroundings, this could lead to noise complaints. Check if your building allows musical instruments, and if not, plan ahead by playing quietly or practicing outside.
Q. Is it okay to visit the store even if I can’t play at all?
A. It’s no problem at all if you can’t play. You can also listen to the staff play and choose a guitar based on that.
Q. As a first-time acoustic guitar player, should I avoid buying a used guitar? Is a new one better?
A. For beginners, we recommend a used guitar that’s already been adjusted and is in good condition. Unadjusted used guitars can be difficult to play and carry the risk of defects. Used guitars often have wood that has settled, making it easier to skip necessary adjustment steps. They may have scratches, but you can use them without worrying about them, and it’s easy to grow attached to them. On the other hand, New offers the appeal of being the “first owner” and the ability to choose the latest model.
Q. I’m thinking about playing live—what should I do? What is Electric Acoustic?
A. If you’re planning to perform live early on, Electric Acoustic is recommended. Electric Acoustic features a built-in pickup system that allows you to plug into an amp for loud volume, but it’s also enjoyable to play acoustically. It’s a good idea to consider in advance whether you’ll be using it for live performances.
Q. What are passive and active pickups on Electric Acoustic? What’s the difference? Which should I choose?
A. A pickup is a device that picks up the sound of an acoustic guitar. Passive pickups don’t require batteries, but their output and features are limited. Active pickups require batteries but offer higher output and may include volume and tone controls, as well as a tuner function. If you’ll be using the guitar primarily for live performances, we recommend an active pickup. If you only plan to connect it to an amp occasionally, a passive pickup is also a viable option.
Q. Can I use it for live performances even if it’s not a Electric Acoustic?
A. Yes, you can. In small venues, the acoustic sound alone may be sufficient, and even in live houses, you can get by with a microphone. However, if convenience is your priority, we recommend starting with a Electric Acoustic; using a non-Electric Acoustic setup is better suited for more experienced players.
Q. Are cheap guitars no good? What’s the difference with expensive ones?
A. It’s not necessarily true that cheap guitars are no good. The important thing is whether it suits your purpose. If you can clarify your goals and what you want to do, you’ll be less likely to make a mistake. If it’s difficult to decide, we can help you choose the best one for you.
Q. Which should I prioritize: appearance, sound, or playability?
A. All of them are important. To ensure you enjoy playing and stick with it, it’s best to choose based on the overall package. If I had to pick one, appearance can have a strong intuitive impact, so it’s worth prioritizing.
Q. I’m worried I’ll get bored with it right after buying it…
A. It’s fine if your initial motivation is vague, but deciding based solely on budget often leads to regret. It’s a good idea to consider affordable options as well. The key to sticking with it is to keep asking yourself “What do I want to do?” and start practicing the parts of songs you can play to build a sense of accomplishment.
Q. Should I buy a method book?
A. Method books often contain well-thought-out content designed to help you improve, and they’re especially helpful for maintaining motivation if you’re inspired by a professional musician you admire. On the other hand, if you already have specific songs in mind, a songbook might be a better fit. With plenty of free videos available on YouTube and other platforms these days, it’s a good idea to start by using those resources and then choose a method book or songbook as needed.
Q. I have small hands (short fingers). Will I be able to play?
A. With practice, you’ll definitely be able to play. Choosing a guitar that feels comfortable to play will help you improve. It’s best to actually hold one in your hands to check how easy it is to hold and how well it fits.
Q. I can’t read sheet music at all. Will that be a problem?
A. It’s not a problem. TAB notation is commonly used for guitar, and many people learn by watching videos. There are plenty of resources available for learning even if you can’t read sheet music, so there’s no need to worry too much.
Q. Is it true that your fingers will hurt so much you won’t be able to play?
A. Your fingers will hurt at first as you continue practicing, but your fingertips will gradually toughen up and the pain will subside. It’s also possible to make the guitar easier to play by adjusting it, which can help alleviate the pain.
Q. What else do I need besides the guitar itself?
A. The bare minimum you’ll need is a pick and a capo. Other useful items include a clip-on tuner and a guitar stand for storage (be sure to protect your guitar from temperature and humidity fluctuations, air conditioning drafts, direct sunlight, and children or pets). For live performances, you’ll need a strap and a cable. Since strings are consumables, it’s a good idea to have spares on hand. For transport, we recommend a gig bag that offers a good balance of lightness and protection.
Q. What type and gauge of strings do you recommend?
A. As a standard and easy-to-compare option, I use D’Addario EJ16 (.012-.053). Standard gauge strings produce a rich tone and are easy to play if properly tuned. If your fingers hurt or the strings feel too stiff, you can temporarily try thinner strings and switch back to standard gauge once you get used to them.
Q. What should I do if a string breaks?
A. Please rest assured that a broken string is not a malfunction. You can replace it by following instructional videos or similar guides.
Finally
So, have you found “the one”? Now it’s time to head to the store!
The staff at the store are all friendly and will listen to anything—your situation, your preferences, you name it. Feel free to strike up a conversation with them.
If you live far away, please check out this site to explore your options♪
We offer video calls, and we’re posting lots of content on our TCGAKKI YouTube channel, so stay tuned!
Author: Inoue, Store Manager at Advance Guitars – Vintage Guitar Expert
An expert who has been playing instruments since childhood and has been involved in appraising and selling over several thousand vintage guitars. He maintains strong connections with collectors and dealers overseas. Guided by the belief that “the history of a guitar can change based on a single color or stamp,” he strives to provide detailed and passionate commentary.
Qualifications and Experience: 8 years as a musical instrument appraiser; contributor and supervisor for publications such as Guitar Magazine
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