📩 Email: aco@tcgakki.com
Choosing Your First Instrument | Acoustic Guitar
Is your desire to “get started” just getting left behind?
I want to start playing acoustic guitar
But the more I research, the less I know what the right choice is...
• There’s too much information to choose from
Reviews and comparisons are everywhere, and in the end, they all seem like good options.
• You’re afraid to set a budget
—You feel paralyzed, worried people will tell you, “It’s no good if it’s too cheap” or “The more expensive one is the right choice.”
• It’s embarrassing to try out a guitar when you can’t play
—You’re worried about messing up in front of the salesperson, so you avoid going to the store.
• I’m worried I’ll make a mistake buying used
—My first thought is, “What if it’s in bad condition?”
• Worried about being swayed by the salesperson
I don’t have the confidence to judge whether it’s really the right fit for me.
Exhaustion sets in before the excitement—that’s the first hurdle.
That anxiety isn’t your fault.
Acoustic guitars are a world completely different from everyday shopping.
• There’s a lot of technical jargon
—terms like “solid top,” “neck,” and “string action” are all hard to understand at first glance.
• The price range is too wide
Prices range from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of yen, and it’s hard to see any clear standard.
• Each guitar is unique
—Even within the same model, there can be differences in tone and playability.
As a result, many people end up choosing a guitar that’s hard to play and give up
• Your fingers hurt
—A poorly adjusted guitar requires more effort than necessary.
• The strings don’t sound right
It’s easy to mistakenly think, “It’s because I’m not good enough,” but the instrument itself could be the cause.
It’s not a matter of talent or effort—it’s simply that your first guitar wasn’t the right fit.
There are just three ways to choose a guitar without making a mistake
① Appearance
It’s okay to choose one simply because you think, “I like this.”
• It’s important to be drawn to it intuitively
That feeling of “I like this” the moment you see it will be a lasting source of motivation.
• Imagine how it will look in your room
If you want to touch it, you’ll naturally play it more often.
Trust your intuition rather than looking for the “right” answer.
② Sound
Your ears are already well-trained
• It’s OK to judge based on “like” or “dislike”
—What matters most is whether it feels good to you, rather than technical criteria.
• You can check the sound even if you can’t play it
A staff member will play it for you, so you can hear the sound objectively.
“I don’t know because I’m a beginner” is just a misconception
③ Playing Feel
—Leave this part to the professionals
• Experience how easy it is to hold and grip
—The right shape varies depending on your build and hand size.
• Ease of fingering can be adjusted
If set up correctly, you can significantly reduce strain on your fingers.
Most instances of giving up can be prevented here
We prepare each guitar “before selling”
We ensure that every guitar we receive is in perfect playing condition for the next owner
• No playing experience required
Testing the guitar is not mandatory.
• We don’t use technical jargon
—we explain things assuming you don’t know the terms.
• We won’t push sales on you
—if a guitar isn’t a good fit, we’ll tell you so.
• We honestly describe the condition of used guitars
—including any necessary adjustments and how the instrument may change over time
This service is especially well-suited for people like this
• People who don’t want to make a mistake on their first try
— Those who want to stick with it first, rather than planning to replace it right away.
• Those interested in used instruments but feeling unsure
: People who want a professional to assess the condition.
• People who don’t want to give up because their fingers hurt
People who prioritize playability.
• Those considering singing while playing or performing live
: People who want to discuss future uses as well.
• Don’t want it to be “just a one-time purchase”
People who want to consider maintenance and their progress as part of the process.
Having fellow players makes it easier to stick with it—let’s enjoy it together!
Just 30 seconds! We’ll recommend the perfect guitar for you
Just let us know the following via the chat below or by email
• ① Why do you want to start?
As a hobby, to sing and play, or because of an artist you admire, etc.
• ② Where will you play?
At home, in a studio, outdoors, etc.
• ③ Approximate budget
It’s okay if you haven’t decided yet.
• ④ Your aesthetic preferences
—color, shape, brand, etc. Vague descriptions are fine.
I’ll recommend a guitar that’s “less likely to lead to giving up”—one that’s right for you—and explain why.
📩 Email: aco@tcgakki.com
There’s a world of guitar playing that only those who’ve stuck with it for a year can see
Your first guitar is the gateway to that world
We’ll be right by your side until you get there
There are two main types of acoustic guitars
...So, you’ve arrived at the music store. When you step inside and are faced with a vast array of acoustic guitars, you’ll likely freeze in your tracks, thinking, “With so many to choose from, how am I ever supposed to know which one is right for me...?” To help you make the right choice, let’s start by explaining the different types of acoustic guitars. Broadly speaking, there are two main types: the “folk guitar” and the “classical guitar.”The folk guitar, which uses steel strings, accommodates a wide range of styles, from “singing while strumming” to “fingerpicking” without a pick.
Generally, when people say “acoustic guitar,” they’re referring to the folk guitar. On the other hand, the classical guitar—used, as the name suggests, for classical music and bossa nova—uses nylon strings and is typically played without a pick, using the fingers to pluck the melody.While the folk guitar, with its jangly, resonant sound, makes you want to strum away, the classical guitar’s soft, sweet tone is perfect for a cozy, romantic atmosphere. Incidentally, the classical guitar is also called a “gut guitar.” It’s named this way because gut strings—made from sheep intestines—were traditionally used.
At first glance, folk and classical guitars look the same, but you can spot differences in the body size, the bridge where the strings are attached, the tuning pegs, and even the width and thickness of the neck. Once you understand these differences, you can avoid the mistake of trying to play “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” on a classical guitar, just like the protagonist of a certain manga.
Now, let’s go over the key points to check when actually choosing an acoustic guitar. With so many acoustic guitars lined up, what should you look for? In fact, this might be the first—and biggest—hurdle. I’m often asked in stores, “I’m a beginner—what should I look for when choosing one?” When that happens, I reply, “A guitar that’s easy to play is better than one with a great sound.” (← Of course, I use polite language in real life.)
That’s right—I believe that when choosing your first acoustic guitar, the most important factor to prioritize is “playability”!! When it comes to the playability of an acoustic guitar, the first thing to consider is “string action.” String action refers to the distance between the strings and the fretboard where you press them down. Generally speaking, the lower the string action, the easier it is to play because you don’t have to use as much force when pressing the strings down.Compared to electric guitars, acoustic guitars naturally have a higher string action, so even if you’ve been playing electric guitars up until now, this is something you’ll want to check carefully. You could prioritize sound or design over playability, but if the acoustic guitar you choose that way turns out to be hard to play, you might end up thinking, “Ugh, my fingers are sooo sore from practicing yesterday—I’m skipping today,” or “My fingers hurt again after just a little playing! I’m definitely skipping today too!”“Ugh, enough already! It hurts!” And before you know it, your acoustic guitar ends up gathering dust… That’s exactly what could happen. To keep playing for the long haul, I highly recommend choosing a guitar that’s easy to play!!
Next, check the “neck”—a crucial part that’s closely related to string height and has a huge impact on playability. As you’ll see if you actually hold a neck in a store, necks come in various shapes: thick or thin, semicircular (U-neck), or triangular (V-neck).Since you’ll be holding the neck and pressing down on the strings while playing, you’ll want to choose a shape that fits your hand—though preferences vary from person to person. Generally speaking, slimmer necks are said to be easier to grip, so it might be a good idea to start by trying a slimmer one.
The next point to check is “body size.” At first glance, acoustic guitars may all look the same, but there are actually many different types.The body size makes a big difference in sound, how comfortable it is to hold, and, of course, its appearance. There are three main body sizes. The first is the “Dreadnought” type. This is generally the most well-known size when people think of acoustic guitars. It has a slightly wider body with a shallow waist, making it a versatile size suitable for any playing style, from strumming to fingerpicking. The second is the “OOO (Triple-O)” type.
Characterized by a smaller body, this size is considered easy to play for women and people of smaller stature. Even the legendary Eric Clapton is a fan of this type. The third is the “Jumbo” type. As the name suggests—not a flawless “back drop,” but rather—it’s characterized by a large body. Because of its size, you can enjoy a deep, resonant sound. Please choose based on your preferences for each model’s characteristics and appearance.It’s generally said that the OOO type is better suited for fingerpicking, while the Jumbo type is better for strumming, but playing styles vary from person to person. Some of you might say, “I want to strum on an OOO!” or “I want to pluck away on a Jumbo—so what?” Go right ahead. I think finding your own unique style is one of the true joys of playing an instrument.
By the way, there isn’t a specific “~type” for classical guitars; they basically all have the same shape. However, many classical guitars are handcrafted by luthiers, and the construction, size, and shape vary slightly depending on the maker—and, of course, this results in differences in tone as well.
This is a classic acoustic guitar body style. As you can see, it produces a rich, deep sound.
It’s easy to hold and offers outstanding playability. The body has a generally rounded shape.
Differences in Acoustic Guitar Materials
Now, let’s take a quick detour to briefly explain the structure, woods, and parts of acoustic guitars. The greatest appeal and defining feature of an acoustic guitar is, without a doubt, its unamplified sound. As I’ve said many times, acoustic guitars are designed to produce sound on their own—without an amplifier—so they have a structure that resonates exceptionally well. Even a light tap will make it ring out with a “clang,” which can be a bit startling.Also, since they can get quite loud when played indoors, please be careful if you live in an apartment building with strict landlords.
And what really defines the sound of an acoustic guitar is the “wood.” Acoustic guitars are broadly made up of four parts: the top (front panel), sides (side panels), back (back panel), and neck. The sound varies depending on the combination of woods used for the top, sides, and back.
Top Wood:
Generally, spruce is commonly used for the top. To be more specific, there are various types of spruce—such as Sitka spruce, Engelmann spruce, and German spruce—and each has its own distinctive tonal characteristics.Incidentally, while there are specialists who can identify the type of spruce by looking at the grain, for the average person, distinguishing between different types of spruce based on similar grain patterns is about as difficult as telling at a glance whether a character is Osomatsu-kun or Choromatsu-kun. Spruce is characterized by a slightly hard texture and a clear tone. It is said that the more you play it, the better it sounds.
Another commonly used wood is cedar. Compared to spruce, it is softer and has a warm tone, making it a popular choice for classical guitars. Like spruce, there are different varieties, such as “red cedar” and “white cedar.”
Side & Back Wood:
Generally, the same wood is used for both the sides and the back. The most common choices are “rosewood” and “mahogany.” Rosewood, characterized by its vertical grain, produces a beautiful sustain and offers excellent balance across the entire frequency range—from low to high—making it the most popular choice for acoustic guitar sides and backs. Simply put, I believe the combination of spruce and rosewood produces the sound most characteristic of an acoustic guitar.Mahogany is characterized by strong midrange and a crisp, clean sound. Personally, I prefer the tone of mahogany. Additionally, “Hacalanda” can be considered the king of woods used in guitars. It is classified as a type of rosewood; what is commonly referred to as “rosewood” includes “Indian rosewood,” while “Brazilian rosewood” is known as Hacalanda.Currently, there are restrictions on its import and export, and because it is an extremely rare wood, it is used only in very expensive guitars. Guitars made with Jacaranda are the object of desire for everyone from young people to the elderly; you could say they’re the Madonna of the guitar world—or the Masami Nagasawa of the male world. (Or is it just me!?) By the way, using the word “Jacaranda” makes me feel a bit like a smooth operator. Please feel free to use it as much as you like. There are also various other types of wood, such as “maple,” which is characterized by strong treble, a hard texture, and a bright tone, and “koa,” which conveys a sense of warmth within its sparkling resonance and is often used in ukuleles. However, the difference in sound depending on the wood is a matter of personal preference—it’s not a question of good or bad. I think it’s best to actually play them and compare them for yourself.
Acoustic Guitar Parts and Component Names
Headstock:
The tip of the neck. The manufacturer’s logo is often printed here, but depending on the model, it may feature beautiful decorations or carvings, which greatly affect the guitar’s appearance.
Tuners:
The parts where the strings are wound. They come in a wide variety—including gold, chrome (silver), and plastic buttons—making them the perfect
parts for beginners looking to customize their instrument.
Nut:
Available in materials such as cow bone, carbon, and plastic, this small but crucial part affects the sound depending on the material. It features grooves to prevent the strings from sliding sideways, and since the depth of these grooves affects string action, it works in tandem with the saddle.
| Fret: |
| Soundhole: |
Pickguard:
Protects the top from scratches caused by picks. Some feature floral or bird motifs, while others have unique shapes, making it one of the stylish highlights of an acoustic guitar. Note that pickguards are often glued to the top, so removing or replacing them is not easy.
| Next, let’s talk about parts. Among the many components, the “saddle” is one you’ll want to pay special attention to. As mentioned earlier, when buying your first guitar, it’s recommended to choose one with low string action for ease of play. However, even with a guitar that has high string action, there’s a way to adjust the string height by adjusting this saddle. Yes, this is the “secret trick” I hinted at earlier. |
Bridge:
An essential part that not only transmits the vibration of the strings from the saddle to the body but also secures the strings. On a folk guitar, the strings are threaded through the holes in the bridge and secured with bridge pins.On classical guitars, it’s common to wrap the strings around the bridge to secure them. Note that if you leave the strings tensioned for an extended period, the tension can cause the area around the bridge to swell or even cause the bridge to come loose. Therefore, we recommend loosening the strings by half a step to one full step after playing. (This also helps prevent neck warping.)
Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing an Acoustic Guitar
Q. What exactly is an acoustic guitar? How does it differ from a folk guitar or a classical guitar?
A. Acoustic guitars are broadly categorized into folk guitars and classical guitars, which differ in sound and intended use. Generally, the term “acoustic” often refers to a folk guitar. Before you start, confirm which type suits your purpose, and if you’re unsure, it’s best to ask for advice.
Q. I live in a condo or apartment—is it okay to play an acoustic guitar at home?
A. Acoustic guitars are louder than you might imagine, and depending on your surroundings, this could lead to noise complaints. Check whether your building allows musical instruments, and if that’s not possible, plan ahead by playing more quietly or practicing outside.
Q. Is it okay to go to a store even if I can’t play at all?
A. It’s no problem at all if you can’t play. You can also listen to the staff play and choose a guitar based on that.
Q. As a first-time acoustic guitar player, should I avoid buying used? Is a new one better?
A. For beginners, we recommend a used guitar that’s been adjusted and is in good condition. Unadjusted used guitars may be difficult to play or have hidden issues. Used guitars often have wood that has settled, which can save you the trouble of necessary adjustments. They may have scratches, but you can use them without worrying about them, and you’ll likely grow attached to them. On the other hand, new guitars offer the appeal of being the “first owner” and the ability to choose the latest model.
Q. I’m thinking about playing live—what should I do? What is an Electric Acoustic guitar?
A. If you’re planning to play live early on, an Electric Acoustic guitar is recommended. An Electric Acoustic guitar has a pickup built into the body, allowing you to plug it into an amp for louder volume, though you can still enjoy the natural sound just fine. It’s a good idea to think about whether you’ll be playing live before making your decision.
Q. What are passive and active pickups on an Electric Acoustic guitar? What’s the difference? Which should I choose?
A. A pickup is a device that picks up the sound of an acoustic guitar. Passive pickups don’t require batteries but have modest output and limited features. Active pickups require batteries but offer higher output and may include volume and tone controls, as well as a tuner function. If you plan to use the guitar primarily for live performances, we recommend an active pickup. If you only plan to connect it to an amp occasionally, a passive pickup is also a viable option.
Q. Can I use an Electric Acoustic guitar for live performances?
A. Yes, you can. In small venues, the natural sound may be sufficient on its own, and even in live music venues, you can use a microphone to amplify the sound. However, if convenience is a priority, we recommend starting with an Electric Acoustic guitar; using a non-Electric Acoustic guitar is best suited for more experienced players.
Q. Are cheap guitars no good? What’s the difference with expensive ones?
A. It’s not necessarily true that cheap guitars are no good. What matters is whether it suits your purpose. If you can clarify your goals and what you want to do, you’ll be less likely to make a mistake. If it’s difficult to figure out, we can help you choose the best one for you through consultation.
Q. Which should I prioritize: appearance, sound, or playability?
A. All three are important. To ensure you enjoy playing and stick with it, it’s best to make your choice based on the overall package. If I had to pick one, appearance can have a strong intuitive impact, so it’s worth prioritizing.
Q. I’m worried I’ll get bored right after buying it…
A. It’s okay if your initial motivation is vague, but deciding based solely on budget often leads to regret. It’s a good idea to consider affordable options as well. The key to sticking with it is to keep coming back to “what you want to do,” practice the parts of the songs you want to play that you can actually play, and build up a sense of accomplishment.
Q. Should I buy a method book?
A. Method books often contain well-thought-out content designed to help you improve, and they’re especially helpful for maintaining motivation if you’re inspired by a professional musician you admire. On the other hand, if you already have specific songs in mind that you want to play, a songbook might be a better fit. Since there are plenty of free videos available on YouTube and other platforms these days, it’s a good idea to start by using those videos and then choose a method book or songbook as needed.
Q. I have small hands (short fingers). Will I be able to play?
A. With practice, you’ll definitely be able to play. Choosing a guitar that feels comfortable for your body will help you improve. It’s best to actually hold one in your hands to check how easy it is to cradle and how well it fits.
Q. I can’t read sheet music at all—is that okay?
A. That’s not a problem. TAB notation is commonly used for guitar, and many people learn by watching videos. There are plenty of resources available to help you learn even if you can’t read sheet music, so there’s no need to worry too much.
Q. Is it true that your fingers will hurt so much you won’t be able to play?
A. Your fingers will hurt at first as you continue practicing, but your fingertips will gradually toughen up, and the pain will subside. You can also make it easier to fret the strings and alleviate the pain by having your guitar adjusted.
Q. What else do I need besides the guitar itself?
A. The bare minimum you’ll need is a pick and a capo. Other handy items include a clip-on tuner and a guitar stand for storage (be sure to protect your guitar from temperature and humidity fluctuations, air conditioning drafts, direct sunlight, and children or pets). For live performances, you’ll need a strap and a cable. Since strings are consumables, it’s a good idea to have spares on hand. For transport, we recommend a gig bag that offers a good balance between lightness and protection.
Q. What types/sizes of strings do you recommend?
A. As a standard set that’s easy to compare, I use D’Addario EJ16 (.012–.053). Standard-gauge strings produce a rich tone and are easy to play if properly tuned. If your fingers hurt or the strings feel too stiff, you can temporarily try thinner strings and switch back to standard gauge once you get used to them.
Q. What should I do if a string breaks?
A. Please rest assured that a broken string is not a malfunction. You can replace it by following instructional videos or other guides.
Finally,
So, have you found “the one”? Now it’s time to head to the store!
The staff at the store are all friendly and will listen to anything—from your situation to your preferences. Feel free to strike up a conversation with them.
If you live far away, please check out this site to explore our selection♪
We also offer video calls, and we post lots of content on the TCGAKKI YouTube channel, so stay tuned!
Author: Inoue, Store Manager at Advance Guitars – Vintage Guitar Expert
An expert who has been playing instruments since childhood and has been involved in appraising and selling over several thousand vintage guitars. He maintains strong connections with collectors and dealers overseas. Guided by the belief that “the history of a guitar can change based on a single color or stamp,” he strives to provide detailed and passionate commentary.
Qualifications and Experience: 8 years as a musical instrument appraiser; contributor and editor for Guitar Magazine and other publications
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