Choosing Your First Instrument | Acoustic Guitar xml-ph-0000@deepl.internal

Choosing Your First Instrument｜Acoustic Guitar

　Even though we call it music, there are countless styles. The classic band sound, androgynous rock with its unique atmosphere and mysterious allure, heavy metal with its rumbling bass and denim & leather aesthetic, R&B and hip-hop now commonplace on city streets, the blues with its raw, heartfelt roots, plus jazz, bossa nova... the list goes on and on.
But! When you consider the essence of music and instruments, there's a most primitive element common to them all. That is... the raw sound!! So, while this approach might be a bit forced (wry smile), I want to help those starting with the acoustic guitar—the most popular unamplified instrument, consistently popular and played by many—by offering guidance on how to choose one.

　Many people start by saying, "I want to play acoustic guitar!" and choose one right away. But surprisingly often, I hear, "I've been rocking out on electric, but I don't really know about acoustics..."As a band member, I imagine many are inspired by the calm acoustic sound showcased on 'MTV Unplugged' – a stark contrast to the hard-rocking performances by Eric Clapton, Aerosmith, KISS, Paul Weller, Nirvana, and others – and aspire to that kind of stage presence when starting with an acoustic guitar.

　Then there's the street performer you often see, pouring emotion into their songs while powerfully strumming their guitar. Fingerpicking, capable of handling a wide range of playing styles—sometimes delicate, sometimes bold.The classical guitar, with its soft tone and lyrical melodies... Acoustic guitars offer so many captivating styles. So, whether you're a beginner caught between hope and anxiety, thinking "I'm a total newbie and don't know anything!", or a slightly shy veteran thinking "I'm too embarrassed to ask now!", let's embark together on the journey of choosing your first acoustic guitar.

　When buying a guitar, I think the criteria for choosing one include "budget," "good sound," "looks," and "brand." But among those, the most pressing issue is probably the budget. "Hey, kid, bring me the most expensive one, whatever it is!" "Waaay, Papa~ I'm so happy~!" "Oh ho ho! For your practice, young master, I'll even buy you a studio, my dear!" Families where such bourgeois exchanges are possible are few and far between.

　Most people hit that first critical decision point: how much can I spend on my first instrument!? Even when talking with customers in-store, opinions vary wildly. Some say, "I'm not sure if I'll stick with it, so I'll just get a cheap one for now," while others radiate such confidence you can't help but agree: "If I buy a high-end one first, I'll have no choice but to keep going!!" Everyone's approach to choosing their first guitar is as unique as the person themselves.

　But if I may speak purely from my own personal bias, I'd still say start low. Something around ¥50,000 to ¥60,000 is probably best. You can focus on playing without worrying about the price, and above all, it makes the most exciting part of continuing with an instrument... yes, leveling up... so much easier!? ...I couldn't help but shout that out loud.Well, just take my ramblings as one reference to tuck away in the back of your mind...

　Also, when actually searching in stores, sometimes you find something you like within your budget, but other times, regardless of price, the moment you see it, hold it, or play it, you just get that "Whoa, I got a vibe!" feeling.Trying too many at once can numb your ears—"They all start sounding the same..."—and the more you play, the more you get lost in that maze. So before that happens, going with the guitar that gives you that instant "Wow!" feeling based on pure intuition is a great approach.

　Then there's the choice between "New" or "used." This isn't just an issue for first-time buyers; it's an unavoidable choice whenever you buy an instrument, whether it's your second guitar or a high-end piece. Both have their appeal, but New obviously boasts "excellent condition" as its major feature.Being unused, it's dazzlingly beautiful and shiny. Since it hasn't belonged to anyone yet, the more you play it, the more it will take on your personal character.

On the other hand, the appeal of a used instrument is, above all, its "evolved sound." Instruments change their sound over time and through being played.The beauty of a used instrument lies in its unique sound, developed over 20 or 30 years as it dries out and the tone becomes more responsive from being played. Acoustic instruments like guitars show particularly noticeable changes in sound, and with greater individual variation, the joy of finding a guitar that plays your own unique sound is truly special.

　Many people also imagine used items might have "scratches or dull spots"... and yes, that's true. While some used guitars are in unused condition, it's common to find light dents or pick-worn marks, and sometimes repairs like cracks. However, that sense of use and the aged look are also major charms of used items.

　In fact, many vintage enthusiasts openly state they have no interest in guitars without any signs of wear. Each used instrument carries its own story, shaped by the environments and hands it has passed through. No two instruments produce an identical tone. Among the vast number of guitars out there, the moment you encounter one that perfectly matches your preferred sound and look—that is surely a meeting of destiny.
So, trust your budget, your intuition, and that fateful encounter... Off to the music store!!

Acoustic guitars come in two main types

　...Here we are, at the music store. When you step inside and see the overwhelming number of acoustic guitars, you'll probably freeze up thinking, "There are so many, I have no idea which one is good..." To avoid mistakes, let's first explain the types of acoustic guitars. Broadly speaking, there are two main types: "folk guitars" and "classical guitars."The folk guitar, which uses steel strings, accommodates a wide range of styles, from "singing while playing" to "fingerpicking" without a pick.

Generally, when people say "acoustic guitar," they mean the folk guitar. On the other hand, the classical guitar, used for classical music and bossa nova as the name suggests, uses nylon strings and is primarily played by plucking the melody with the fingers, not a pick.While the folk guitar's resonant, open sound makes you want to strum away, the classical guitar's soft, sweet tone is perfect for creating a cozy, intimate atmosphere. Incidentally, the classical guitar is also called a "gut guitar." This name comes from the fact that gut strings, made from materials like sheep intestines, were once used.

　Folk guitars and classical guitars look similar at first glance, but differences can be seen in the body size, the bridge where the strings are attached, the pegs where the strings are wound, and even the width and thickness of the neck. Understanding these differences will help you avoid the mistake of trying to play "Jumpin' Jack Flash" on a classical guitar, like a certain manga protagonist.

　Now, let's list the checkpoints for actually choosing an acoustic guitar. Among the many acoustic guitars lined up, what should you check? This might actually be the first and biggest hurdle. In stores, I'm often asked, "I'm a beginner, but what should I look for when choosing?" At times like that, I answer, "A guitar that's easy to play is better than one that sounds great." (← Of course, I actually use polite language.)

That's right! When choosing your first acoustic guitar, I believe the most important factor to prioritize is "playability"!! When it comes to playability, the first thing to consider is "string action." String action refers to the distance between the strings and the fretboard where you press them down. Generally, lower string action means less pressure is needed to fret the strings, making it easier to play. Compared to electric guitars, acoustic guitars naturally have higher string action, so even if you've played electric before, this is a crucial point to check.While some prioritize sound and design over playability, if your chosen acoustic proves difficult to play, you might find yourself thinking: "Ugh, my fingers hurt like crazy after yesterday's practice... I'll skip today," or "My fingers hurt again after just a few notes! Nope, skipping today too," or "Ugh, seriously! "That hurts!" And just like that, your acoustic guitar could end up buried in dust... To keep enjoying playing, we recommend a guitar that's easy to play!!

　Next, check the neck—a crucial part closely related to string height that greatly affects playability. If you hold the neck in a store, you'll notice they come in various shapes: thick or thin, semi-circular (U-neck), or triangular (V-neck).Since you grip this neck to press the strings when playing, you'll want to choose a shape that fits your hand. However, preferences for which shape is best vary from person to person. Generally, a slimmer neck is said to be easier to grip, so starting with a slimmer one might be a good idea.

　The next checkpoint is "body size." While acoustic guitars may look similar at first glance, there are actually many different types.Body size significantly impacts sound, playability, and of course, appearance. There are three main sizes: First is the "Dreadnought" type. This is the most famous size when people generally think of acoustic guitars. It features a slightly wider body with a shallow waist, making it an all-around size suitable for any style, including strumming and fingerpicking. Second is the "OOO (Triple-O)" type.

　Its smaller body makes it easier to play for women or those with smaller frames. Eric Clapton himself is known to favor this type. The third is the "Jumbo" type. As the name suggests, it features a large body. This size allows you to enjoy a deep, resonant sound with great depth. Choose based on your preference for each type's characteristics and appearance.While it's often said that the OOO type suits fingerpicking and the Jumbo type suits strumming, playing styles vary from person to person. Some might say, "I wanna strum on an OOO!" or "I wanna pluck away on a Jumbo, so what?" Go for it. Discovering your own style is one of the true joys of playing an instrument.

　Incidentally, classical guitars don't have specific "~type" classifications and generally share a similar shape. However, many classical guitars are handmade by luthiers (guitar makers). Each maker's construction methods, sizes, and shapes vary slightly, and of course, this results in distinct differences in sound.

This is the quintessential acoustic guitar body style. True to its appearance, it produces a deep, resonant sound.

Easy to hold with outstanding playability. Features an overall rounded body shape.

Differences in Acoustic Guitar Materials

　Now, let's take a quick detour to briefly explain the structure, wood, and parts of an acoustic guitar. The greatest charm and defining feature of an acoustic guitar is undoubtedly its natural sound. As I've said many times, acoustic guitars fundamentally produce sound from the guitar body itself without an amp, so they have a structure that resonates exceptionally well. Even a light bump can make it ring out with a "thud," which can be a bit startling.Also, keep in mind that playing one indoors produces a significant volume, so those living in apartments with strict landlords should be careful.
And what ultimately defines an acoustic guitar's sound is the "wood." An acoustic guitar is broadly composed of four main parts: the top (face), sides (side panels), back (back panel), and neck. The combination of woods used for the top, sides, and back significantly influences the sound.

Top Wood:
Spruce is commonly used for the top. To be precise, spruce includes varieties like Sitka Spruce, Engelmann Spruce, and German Spruce, each with distinct tonal characteristics.Incidentally, while specialists can identify spruce types by their grain patterns, for the average person, distinguishing between different spruces by their similar grain is about as difficult as telling apart Otsumatsu-kun and Choromatsu-kun at a glance. Spruce is characterized by a somewhat hard texture and a clear, distinct tone. It is said to develop a better resonance the more it is played.

　Another commonly used wood is cedar. Compared to spruce, it is softer and produces a warm tone, making it popular for classical guitars. Like spruce, there are varieties such as "Red Cedar" and "White Cedar."

Side & Back Wood:
The same wood is generally used for the sides and back. The most representative are "Rosewood" and "Mahogany." Rosewood, characterized by its vertical grain, produces a beautiful sustain and offers excellent balance across the entire frequency range from low to high notes, making it the most popular choice for acoustic guitar sides and backs. Simply put, I believe the combination of Spruce and Rosewood produces the most quintessential acoustic guitar sound.Mahogany is characterized by its strong midrange and a crisp, clean sound. Personally, I prefer the tone of mahogany. Also, the king of guitar woods is "Brazilian Rosewood." Taxonomically classified as a type of rosewood, the commonly called "rosewood" is "Indian Rosewood," while "Brazilian Rosewood" is what we refer to as "Brazilian Rosewood."Due to current import/export restrictions and its extreme rarity, it's only used in very high-end guitars. Guitars made with Brazilian Rosewood are coveted by players of all ages, from young enthusiasts to seasoned veterans. It's the Madonna of the guitar world, the Masami Nagasawa of male guitarists everywhere. (Just me!?) By the way, using the term "Brazilian Rosewood" makes you sound like a real pro. Go ahead and use it all you want. 　Other woods include "Maple," known for its strong, hard, bright high tones, and "Koa," which offers a sparkling sustain with warmth and is often used for ukuleles. The tonal differences between woods are a matter of preference, not superiority. Actually playing and comparing them is the best way to decide.

Acoustic Guitar Parts and Component Names

Headstock:
The top end of the neck. This section often bears the manufacturer's logo, but depending on the model, it may feature beautiful decorations or carvings, significantly impacting the guitar's overall appearance.

Pegs:
The part where strings are wound. Available in various types like gold, chrome (silver), and plastic buttons, making them perfect parts for beginners looking to customize their
.

Nut: Available in materials like cow bone, carbon, and plastic, this small yet crucial part affects sound quality. Grooves carved into it prevent string slippage, and since groove depth also influences string height, it functions as a counterpart to the saddle.

Fret:
A metal bar embedded in the fingerboard. The pitch changes depending on where you press it. When pressing a string, pressing near this area produces a clean note.

Soundhole:
A hole that releases the resonant sound created inside the body by string vibration. The most distinctive part of an acoustic guitar's appearance.

Pickguard:
Protects the top plate from pick scratches. Some feature floral or bird decorations, or unique shapes, making them one of the acoustic guitar's stylish points. Note that pickguards are often glued to the top plate, so removal or replacement is not easy.

　Next up are the parts, and among the many components, the "saddle" deserves special attention. As mentioned earlier, when buying your first guitar, a lower string height is recommended for easier playability. However, even with a higher string height, there's a way to adjust the saddle to change the string height. Yes, this is the secret trick I hinted at earlier.
　"So, if I choose based on sound or looks, I can just adjust it later, right?" you might think. But! While we call it "adjustment," it's not easy. It requires the skill of a craftsman, filing the saddle down to a flat surface in millimeter increments. If done incorrectly, it can cause sound degradation or buzzing. So, if you attempt this, always consult a store clerk or repair shop first.

Bridge:
This crucial component transmits string vibration from the saddles to the body and secures the strings. For folk guitars, strings are inserted into holes in the bridge and secured with bridge pins.For classical guitars, it's common to wrap the strings around the bridge pins to secure them. Note that leaving strings permanently tensioned can cause the area around the bridge to bulge or the bridge itself to come loose. Therefore, it's recommended to loosen the strings by a semitone to a whole tone after playing. (This also helps prevent neck warping.)

Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing an Acoustic Guitar

Q. Is it okay for beginners to buy used acoustic guitars?
A. Purchasing from a reputable specialty store actually offers significant advantages. Many worry, "Isn't a used guitar in poor condition?" However, at specialty shops, professional repair technicians adjust them for playability before sale. Additionally, many instruments have dried wood, resulting in improved sound. At Advance Guitars, all acoustic guitars we receive are meticulously cleaned and adjusted by our specialist staff, ensuring even beginners can use them with confidence.

Q. What do I need besides the guitar itself?
A. At minimum, you'll need a tuner, picks, replacement strings, and a stand. A tuner is especially essential for tuning. While these items are sometimes sold as a set, buying them separately costs only a few thousand yen. Other useful items include a carrying case and a cleaning cloth. If you're unsure what you need, feel free to ask our staff.

Q. I want to sing and play. Which guitar is best for that?
A. Larger guitars like the "Dreadnought" are generally recommended, as they can project well enough to match your singing voice. Guitars with larger bodies produce richer bass tones and greater volume, making them ideal for vocal accompaniment (chord playing). Conversely, smaller-bodied guitars with more delicate tones tend to be preferred for fingerstyle solo guitar, where you play melodies with your fingers. However, there are no hard and fast rules. The most important thing is to choose a guitar you like the look of. If you have a partner you love, your motivation to practice will last longer.

Q. What are "solid wood" and "laminated wood"?
A. This refers to the number of layers of wood used in the guitar's body, affecting both sound and price. Solid wood means a single piece of wood. It vibrates easily and has a good sound, but it's more expensive. Laminated wood is made by layering wood like plywood. It's sturdy and cheaper, but the sound depth isn't as good as solid wood. Even for beginners, we recommend choosing a model with at least a solid wood top (top solid wood). This way, you can enjoy the pleasure of the sound developing the more you play it.

Q. I heard the strings are stiff and hurt my fingers...?
A. Actually, if the guitar is properly "adjusted," it shouldn't hurt that much. The number one reason beginners give up is "the strings are too stiff to press down," but this is often caused by poor guitar setup. A guitar professionally adjusted to the correct neck curvature and string height allows even beginners to press the strings down with minimal force. At TCGAKKI, we meticulously adjust every guitar to the absolute limit for playability before selling it, ensuring beginners don't get discouraged.

Finally

So, have you found the one? Now it's time to head to the store!
Our staff are all friendly and will listen to your situation and preferences. Feel free to strike up a conversation.


For those far away, explore our site to see what we offer♪
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